Monday, October 25, 2010

Love at First Bite

The Glamorous Hotel DeLuxe in Portland

Rustic-Chic at Irving Street Kitchen

Pearl District Deco

Fall Colors in the Pearl

When Tom Douglas, Seattle Chef extraordinaire and one of the greatest chefs in the world, gives you three recommendations for dinner in Portland, you go. To at least one of them.

Taking the Amtrak “Coast Starlight” to Portland is the way to fly. A quick cab ride, a 10 minute wait, and whoooosh, you are gliding south along the river. Tom Douglas was sitting right next to us, so of course I had to pick his brains about Food. I was not surprised to see how technologically savvy he is, as he wrangled iPhone, iPad, and blueberry muffins along the way. When asked for his recommendations for Portland restaurants, he said, “You’ve come to the right city for great restaurants: Pok Pok [Thai], Genoa [Italian], and Le Pigeon [French].”

I got busy and Googled all three of them, and was excited by the reviews, my mouth watering. The Hotel Deluxe was on the Portland Cocktail Week circuit, so the place was hopping. Barely time to take in the glamorous Hollywood decor, swank lemon-colored upholstery, mirrored Moderne style, and huge black and white photos of stars like Greta Garbo and James Stewart. A few hours of shopping in the oh-so-chic Pearl District, and it was time for the Big Decision.

We decided to dine at the Irving Street Kitchen (sorry, Tom!). It came highly recommended by several other people along the way, and the location, online reviews and website finally swayed us. It was the right choice. I’ve never seen a more beguiling menu! Apparently the James Beard restaurant critics ranked Irving Street Kitchen right up there with Pok Pok, so we were in the right league. The full menu is incredible. Some of our picks for a festive Fall dinner:

Sweet Potato & Fennel Soup, Butternut Squash, Aged Blue Cheese
Seared Shrimp & Dungeness Crab Ragout, Bienville-Bread Pudding, Pickled Okra
Grilled Bone-In Pork Chop, Southern Dirty Rice, Persimmon-Sage Compote
Butterscotch Brulee topped with Crème Fraiche, Fiddle Faddle, and Roasted Peanuts

The service was impeccable and fun; Patrick made the experience joyful as he shared his in-depth knowledge of the source, preparation, and potential wine pairing of each dish. The restaurant sits up a half floor above busy Irving Street, in a concrete floored warehouse, with impossibly but successfully paired rustic country and urban chic décor, steel beams, lovely linens, and an omni-present mason-jars fetish. All the better to savor a “Low Country” with Ransom Old Tom Gin, Fernet Branca, Sage Peppercorn Syrup, and Reed’s Ginger Beer.

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